BATTERY SPECS – WHAT DO THE LETTERS AND NUMBERS MEAN?

Important alpha-numeric codes and specifications apply to every battery, and you must match them to the requirements of your bike. 

These codes are confusing and hard to understand, and even after extensive research, we cannot find a source of information that categorically states what it all means without contradicting information found somewhere else.

What battery codes basically show is the performance, terminal layout and terminal type, and the vent location on conventional flooded batteries. But not all codes give all of this information.

The Outliers: Battery Code Confusion

Codes used for terminal layouts on many flooded batteries differ to those used on AGM and Gel batteries. And not all codes contain all the relevant information.

Common examples of such codes are 12N14-3A, YB16L-A2, YTX14AHL-BS, YTZ7S, so let’s look at what the codes mean for those batteries as a demonstration:

12N14-3A: 12N indicates a 12-volt battery of the conventional flooded (wet cell) type. 14 is the power rating (not the Ah rating). The higher the number, the higher the power of the battery. – is a dash, or space and means nothing. 3 is the terminal layout, and for conventional batteries, there are four layouts (1, 2, 3, 4). A is for vent location, and there are four locations (A, B, C, D).

YB16L-A2: YB indicates it is a 12-volt battery of the conventional flooded (wet cell) type. 16 is the power rating (not the Ah rating). The higher the number, the higher the power of the battery. L means the negative terminal is on the left. – is a dash, or space and means nothing. A is for vent location, and there are four locations (A, B, C, D). 2 is the terminal type with bolts going in from the top, 1 indicates they go in from the side.

YTX14AHL-BS: YTX indicates the battery type and series. 14 is the power rating (not the Ah rating). The higher the number, the higher the power of the battery. A indicates battery case size. H means it has a high CCA (cold cranking amperage). L means the negative terminal is on the left. – is a dash, or space and means nothing. B is for the terminal type. S means it is a sealed battery.

YTZ7S: YTZ indicates the battery type and series. 7 is the power rating (not the Ah rating), the higher the number the higher the power of the battery. S means it is sealed.

From the examples, we see that not all the same information is supplied in all battery codes, which is not helpful. A letter used in one code type does not mean the same thing in another code type.

The codes work very well as a means of identifying the battery you want as long as you stick to the same type of battery from the same manufacturer, but what happens if you want to upgrade from the conventional flooded battery from manufacturer ABC that is specified and fitted on your bike to an AGM battery from manufacturer DEF?

In the absence of a good cross-referencing table, you need to concentrate on what is important and what isn’t…

How To Identify The Right Battery For Your Motorbike

The first and simplest and one of the most important specs not always included in the alpha-numeric code is that of its voltage, and this will be clearly marked on the battery as either 6v or 6 volts, or 12V or 12 volts.

The majority of motorcycles run on 12 volts, but there are many scooters and small bikes that run on 6 volts, and you do not want to fit a 6-volt battery on a bike that requires 12 volts, and vice versa.

Conventional flooded batteries are marked 6N or 12N to show voltage, and you can also tell by the number of cell caps – 6-volt batteries have 3, 12-volt batteries have 6 (there is one cap per cell, and each cell is always 2 volts).

The next important detail is that of physical size and terminal layout. With batteries being housed in confined areas, if you do not buy the correct one it is likely that it will not fit, or you may find that the positive lead is next to the negative terminal and this will do your bike no good at all.

Physical size is easy, you can just measure the dimensions of the battery you have (assuming it is the correct size), and check they are the same as the battery you want. The same goes for the terminal layout, a quick visual check sorts that. Terminal type may be important too, depending on the housing and access, but it is not always crucial.

Next, there is the ampere-hour (Ah) rating, and this describes the battery’s ability to provide a certain current for a particular amount of time. A 14 Ah (10hr) battery can provide 1.4 Amps for 10 hours, a 20 Ah (20hr) battery can provide 1A for 20 hours.

As long as the Ah rating of the battery you are buying is at least equal to the specified Ah for your bike, it does not matter if you get a battery with a higher rating; you are getting a better battery, as long as the voltage, size and terminal layout are the same.

Finally, there is the cold cranking amps (CCA) rating, and this describes the battery’s ability to provide enough current to cold-start the bike. A big bike loaded with gadgets and gimmicks needs a good Ah rating so it can keep everything powered, and a large-bore high-compression V-twin needs a good CCA rating for those frosty mornings.

As long as the CCA rating of the battery you are buying is at least equal to the specified CCA requirement for your bike (if given), it does not matter if you get a battery with a higher rating, as long as the physical size and terminal layout is the same.

So, when buying a replacement battery either get the same one from the same manufacturer using the coding and specs given in the handbook and marked on the battery itself. Or, you can use the coding to get the equivalent from a different manufacturer. If you’re not sure, match battery voltage, size and terminal layout.